Quick Takes for Norway
- 🧥 Layers are essential — The weather changes by the minute. It can be sunny, windy, and freezing all in the same hour, especially near the fjords or Trollstigen.
- 🚗 Driving is stunning but stressful — The views are jaw-dropping, but the roads are narrow, winding, and filled with surprise tunnels. You’ll earn every view.
- 🚙 You almost have to rent a car — To truly explore the fjords, a car makes all the difference. If you can’t drive, try Norway in a Nutshell — a train-based fjord tour — but note, only certain fjords are reachable this way. It’s possible, just not easy.
- ✈️ Short flights are cheap, one-way rentals are not — Flights within Norway (and even to Copenhagen) were under $200. But rental cars charge an extra ~$600 for one-way drop-offs. To save both time and money, we booked quick flights and picked up/dropped off our car in Ålesund.
- 🗺️ All fjords are beautiful — Don’t overthink “which one is best.” They start to look the same after a while (in the best way). Choose based on the cities you want to visit — Ålesund, Bergen, or Stavanger — and you’ll be happy either way.
- 🥾 “Easy” hikes are not easy — When Norwegians say “easy,” they mean “steep but paved.” If it says “moderate,” prepare to sweat. These people are mountain goats.
- 💰 Everything costs more than you think — Seriously. Accept it, budget for it, and enjoy it. But if you splurge, make it on a hotel overlooking a fjord — it’s pure magic. ✨
Day 1 – Bergen
We landed in Bergen around 5 p.m. and met our friends Dory and Wes. We checked into the Moxy Hotel, the only Marriott in town, so we used points. It was free, which was great, but honestly … it’s giving college-dorm-with-mood-lighting. It’s about a 20-minute walk to town, so next time I’d splurge on a hotel closer to the city center.
We walked downtown, grabbed a snack at Espresso House (basically Norway’s Starbucks, skip if you hate chains), and headed toward the Fløibanen Funicular. The round-trip ticket was 190 NOK (≈ $17 USD) or ~$10 one way, so we bought one-way tickets up and hiked down, a perfect combo of views and exercise.
At the top we had a drink, pet goats (yes, really), and soaked in the panoramic views. Hiking down was the best part, gorgeous, and dotted with surprise playgrounds and trampolines.
Dinner was at The Unicorn Fish Restaurant, cozy, traditional, and so good. Everything in Bergen books up quickly, so make dinner reservations. Food in Norway is pricey everywhere, so just accept it and enjoy the experience.
🐐 Tip
- 🚠 Take the Fløibanen Funicular up and hike down amazing views and a free workout. Tickets: 100 NOK one way / 190 NOK round trip (~$17 USD).
- 🍽️ Make dinner reservations — Bergen restaurants book fast and everything’s pricey. Expect to pay more than you think and just enjoy it.
- 🏨 If you’re using points, the Moxy Hotel works. Otherwise, splurge on a stay closer to the city center for convenience.
Day 2 – Bergen
We slept in (travel exhaustion hit hard) and grabbed coffee near the university, a cute café with great cappuccinos. My biggest regret? Skipping the 10 a.m. Free Walking Tour. It’s highly rated and full of fun local stories, wish we’d made it!
We wandered a peaceful garden before heading to the Bergen Fish Market for lunch. It’s touristy but worth a visit for the experience, you’ll see dried fish that lasts 40 years, whale meat, and more. Unfortunately, we chose the wrong restaurant: Seaside. Overpriced, underwhelming, and deserving of its 2.3 stars 😬.
After that culinary fail, we turned things around with a traditional Viking ship harbor tour, small, authentic, and so much fun (even in the rain). It’s a great alternative to the big fjord cruises.
That evening we grabbed cocktails at No Stress Bergen, fantastic drinks and cozy vibes, and had one of our best sushi dinners e(outside Japan) at Nama. Everything in Bergen books up fast, so make reservations ahead of time.
🐟 Tip
- 🚶♀️ Don’t miss the Free Walking Tour of Bergen — fun and historical.
- ⛵ Take the Viking Ship Harbor Tour instead of a large fjord cruise — intimate, authentic, and cheaper.
- 🐠 Avoid eating at the Fish Market. It’s overpriced, touristy, and not worth it. Just walk through for the atmosphere and photos instead.
Day 3 – Bergen/Alesund
Bergen
We spent our last morning wandering through town and stopped for breakfast at the cutest café, Baker Brun. Highly recommend, the pastries, sandwiches, and coffee were amazing (and yes, we considered going back for seconds).
After a little souvenir shopping and saying goodbye to our friends, we headed to the airport. Instead of taking a taxi, we hopped on the Bergen Light Rail, which was easy, clean, and super affordable, just 44 NOK (~$4 USD) compared to around $50 USD for a cab. The ride took about 45 minutes and dropped us right at the airport.
Tip
- 🥐 Don’t miss Baker Brun — their pastries and coffee are some of the best in Bergen.
- 🚆 Skip the taxi and take the Bergen Light Rail to the airport. It’s easy, scenic, and only 44 NOK (~$4 USD) versus ~$50 for a cab.
Alesund
We took a short 45-minute flight from Bergen to Ålesund, one of the easiest flights ever. Norway’s domestic flights were all around $100, which made them a great value compared to driving.
Originally, we considered renting a car in Bergen and dropping it off in Ålesund, but most rentals charge around $600 extra for one-way drop-offs. If you’re trying to save both time and money, it’s usually cheaper to fly and then pick up and return your rental car in the same city. That’s exactly what we did, we flew in and out of Ålesund and used the car just for our fjord adventures.
It was super easy to pick up the rental car, we had keys in hand less than 10 minutes after landing, and it was only a 20-minute drive into town. We parked at our cozy Airbnb, which was clean and a 10 min walk to the city center.
Dinner was at Anno, which had incredible mussels, pizza, and people-watching with a view. Definitely make reservations if you can, though you might snag a patio seat without one. Afterward, we strolled along the water and grabbed drinks before heading to the main event celebrating Midsummer Eve and the summer solstice at Slinningsbålet, the world’s largest bonfire.
Tip
- 🔥 Go see the world’s largest bonfire at Slinningsbålet if you’re there for the summer solstice, it’s wild and totally worth it. I’ve got all the parking and logistics tips in my full bonfire blog.
- 🏡 Stay in an Airbnb, it’s much cheaper, and honestly, there’s nothing in Alesund worth splurging big on for hotels.
Day 4 – Geirangerfjord
We left early for Trollstigen, planning to drive the famous windy mountain road, but it was closed due to structural issues. If it’s closed, don’t worry, you can still go up the back side (like we did) to reach the viewpoint and see the winding road from above. Honestly, the roads in Norway are so narrow, steep, and full of blind curves that Matt (who was driving) was relieved he didn’t have to tackle the “famous” one.
The viewpoint alone was stunning, and we did a short 30-minute hike nearby that gave us everything we wanted without the white-knuckle driving. It was extremely windy at the top, so definitely wear layers, even in summer, it feels like a wind tunnel up there.
From there, we continued through the strawberry town of Valldal, where we stopped at the cutest café, Jordbærstova, which is actually a charming little bed and breakfast. We stopped in for a slice of strawberry cake that was hands down the best dessert we’ve ever had. You can also pick up local strawberry jam, but if you want a sit-down meal, call ahead to reserve a table. Matt and I are still dreaming about that cake.
We continued on to Geirangerfjord and checked into the Grande Fjord Hotel, which was an absolute dream, balcony views over the fjord, a hot tub, and the most relaxing vibe.
We debated between taking a fjord cruise (relaxing, slow-paced) or the RIB boat tour (fast and adventurous). We wanted to see the fjord from the water, which we highly recommend, and ultimately went for the RIB boat. It was a blast, we sped across the fjord and saw the Seven Sisters waterfall up close. (They provide full suits and goggles, which you’ll appreciate when the drizzle or wind hits your face at 40 mph.)
That said, I wouldn’t recommend it if the weather is worse than a light drizzle, even with the protective suit, the rain pellets hit hard and can be painful at high speed.
Dinner was at the hotel’s Restaurant Hyskje, good buffet if you’re tired, but not particularly memorable. The real gem? The Distillery Bar, amazing cocktails and shuffleboard with a view of the fjord. Even if you are not staying at the Grande Fjord Hotel I recommend grabbing a drink at the bar.
Tip
- 🛣️ Check if Trollstigen Road is open before your trip, closures are common. See the current status here.
- 💨 It’s windy at the top, pack layers even in summer. The views (and gusts) are next level.
- 🍰 Stop at Jordbærstova in Valldal for strawberry cake or jam. If you want lunch, call ahead, this cozy café fills up fast.
- 🍸 End the night with a cocktail at The Distillery Bar at the Grande Fjord Hotel, great drinks and even better views.
Day 5 – Stryn / Olden / Loen
We started the morning in Geirangerfjord and wanted to squeeze in a quick hike before leaving town. We planned to do the Vesterås Gard Trail, which looked easy enough (1.3 miles), but somehow, we couldn’t find it (hopefully you have better navigation skills than us). Instead, we ended up doing the Waterfall Walk from the Geirangerfjord Visitor Center, which was short, steep, and beautiful. Totally worth it for the views, even if our quads disagreed.
Afterward, we hit the road toward Olden, making a couple stops along the way and a quick detour at the Stryn Ski Center. It was fun to see people skiing down this tiny mountain … in the middle of summer! That said, I’d skip this stop if you’re short on time, neat to see, but unless you’re skiing or snowboarding, it’s not really worth the drive.
We checked into the Olden Fjordhotel, clean, comfortable, and very budget-friendly. We had another gorgeous fjord view, but I wished we’d splurged a little more. The “luxury” option in town, the Hotel Alexandra in Loen, looked nice but not modern enough for the price. If I could redo it, I’d probably book something more unique , like this treehouse Airbnb in Stryn, because honestly, the towns are tiny and there’s not much to do. Staying in nature is the real win here.
From Olden, we drove about ten minutes into Loen for the Loen Skylift, which takes you straight up a mountain for panoramic fjord views. You do have to pay for the lift, even if you’re just going to dinner, but I’d do it either way the views and hikes at the top are worth every kroner.
At the top, we tackled a 5 km “moderate” hike, but let me warn you “moderate” in Norway translates to “steep rock climbing session.” Matt and I both work out daily, and even we found it tough sections of snow, boulders, and serious inclines. That said, the payoff was incredible.
We had dinner at the Hoven Restaurant, it’s definitely pricey (and you’re literally paying for a ticket to get to your meal). It was so cloudy that we couldn’t see the fjord below, so I’d definitely check the weather before you shell out the big bucks. That said, the food was delicious, and if you catch it on a clear evening, I can’t imagine a better dinner view.
🥾 Tip
- 🚠 The Loen Skylift is worth the price for the hikes at the top.
- 🥾 An "easy or moderate” hike in Norway = steep, rocky, and sometimes snowy. Even fit travelers will break a sweat.
- 🏡 Skip the fancy hotels; stay in nature instead, like that dreamy treehouse Airbnb in Stryn.
- 🍽️ The Hoven Restaurant is a splurge, but totally worth it for dinner with a view (if the weather cooperates!)
Day 6 – Briksdal Glacier & Ålesund
We started early to hike the Briksdal Glacier, one of the most beautiful glacier hikes in Norway and one of our favorites of the whole trip. The hike is about 3 miles (5 km) round trip, and it took us around two hours total. It’s labeled as easy, but we think that’s because it’s paved, there are definitely steep sections that make it feel more like a moderate hike.
If you’re not up for hiking, you can hop on the tractor shuttle, which will take you most of the way up and still offer great views. But the glacier itself is absolutely stunning turquoise ice, rushing waterfalls, and a perfect payoff at the top.
Afterward, we made the 3.5-hour drive to Ålesund, our longest of the trip. Once in town, we hiked up to the Aksla Viewpoint. It’s labeled as an easy uphill walk, and while technically true since it’s paved, it’s still a climb. Honestly, we don’t think Norwegians know what “easy” means. The views at the top, though? Unreal.
That night, we had beers at Dirty Nelly, Matt loved it (he’s a sucker for a good Irish pub) and dinner at Nonna Lina, a cozy Italian restaurant with great pizza.
We stayed again at our Airbnb, walkable, clean, and a total win because it had laundry. Much needed at this point in the trip!
🧊 Tip
- 🥾 The Briksdal Glacier hike is paved but still steep, a “Norwegian easy.”
- 📸 Don’t miss the Aksla Viewpoint — the views are incredible, especially around sunset.
Day 7 – Oslo (Layover Edition)
This was our longest travel day, we flew from Ålesund to Oslo with a six-hour layover before heading to Copenhagen. I’d been to Oslo before and wasn’t a huge fan, but Matt really wanted to see it, so we decided to make the most of it.
The first pleasant surprise was how easy the luggage storage was at the airport — it’s located just outside the terminal, in short-term parking on the first floor. It cost 143 NOK (about $13 USD) for the day, and we fit two carry-ons and two duffels in one locker.
We then took the train into the city, which was quick and easy. There are two options:
The Flytoget Airport Express — about 19 minutes and 230 NOK,
Or the Vy Regional Train — about 23 minutes and 114 NOK.
We took the Vy train because, honestly, we’d rather save the $10 for pastries. Both trains go directly to Oslo S (Central Station) and run frequently.
Once downtown, we started at the Oslo Opera House, the architecture is stunning, and you can actually walk on the roof for city and fjord views.
Then we wandered over to the Vippa Food Hall, which had great reviews but was… not great. The food was overpriced, the service was slow, and the vibe was just off. Would not recommend.
After lunch, we walked to the Akershus Fortress for a short stroll and nice harbor views, then past the Oslo City Hall. It’s worth a peek if you’re into history or architecture, this is where the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony is held each year.
By late afternoon, we were ready to head back to the airport and continue on our journey.
If you have more time in Oslo check out:
The Vigeland Sculpture Park, a fascinating (and free) open-air art garden with over 200 sculptures.
Visit the Fram Museum, home to the world’s strongest wooden ship and Norway’s proud polar exploration history.
Explore the National Museum, Norway’s largest art collection, with everything from Viking relics to Munch’s The Scream.
Tip
- 🚆 Take the Vy Regional Train into the city — about 23 minutes and half the price of the Flytoget Express. Both go directly to Oslo S.
- 🏰 Walk the roof of the Oslo Opera House and stroll through the Akershus Fortress for quick, scenic highlights.
- 🍽️ Skip Vippa Food Hall — the food didn’t live up to the hype. Try grabbing coffee near the harbor instead.
My Overall Recommendation: Where to Splurge and Where to Save
💸 Where to Splurge vs. Save
Where to Splurge
- 🏞️ Hotels with a view — Norway’s magic is in its scenery. Splurge on stays overlooking the fjords, especially in places like Geiranger or Loen. You’ll never forget waking up to those views.
- 🏡 Mountain getaways — Treat yourself to a cozy Airbnb or boutique cabin in the countryside. The peaceful mountain stays are part of the full Norway experience.
- 🚤 Fjord experiences — Do something that gets you out on the water, a RIB boat, scenic fjord cruise, or even a kayak adventure. Seeing Norway from the water is unforgettable and totally worth the cost.
- 🍴 Dining — Maybe splurge on one Michelin-starred restaurant if that’s your thing, but don’t overdo it. All food in Norway is pricey, and even simple spots serve fresh, high-quality meals.
Where to Save
- 🏙️ City hotels — Save your money in Bergen, Oslo, and Ålesund. The real beauty of Norway is in the fjords and countryside, not the urban hotels.
- 🚆 Transportation — Try to use public transportation within cities, it’s efficient, clean, and affordable. But between cities, options are limited and expensive, so plan your routes carefully.
- 🐟 Tourist restaurants — Skip the overpriced spots like the Bergen Fish Market. Grab food at small local cafés or bakeries instead, the quality is better and prices lower.
- 🍞 Simple meals — Don’t feel bad about grabbing bakery sandwiches or grocery-store picnics. It’s part of the local experience and an easy way to save for the fun stuff.
Norway isn’t cheap — but with the right mix of splurges and saves, it’s absolutely worth every krone. 🇳🇴✨
